Provence Travels and Thoughts

Several years ago my husband and I did a project for Chronicle Books Giftworks division called “50 Walks in Provence.” We traveled to more than a dozen villages and cities, researched, and chose 50 interesting walks – and did them all! We took 3, 000 photos documenting each and every street, turn, and addresses of places of interest, from ancient chapels to iconic hotels and brasseries. As so often now happens in the publishing world, things go out of print. So, I thought it would be fun for my readers to read about a few of these walks, and to see a few photos.

Aigues- Mortes, the city of dead waters
The small town, located in the swampy marshes of the Rhone River Delta was built during the crusades at the command of King Louis IX as an outpost with access to the Mediterreanan and thus to the Holy Land. A placard in front of the still standing church of Notre-Dame-des- Sables, on the Place Saint Louis from where he set off for the Seventh Crusade in 1248, with 1500 ships under the royal flag. As a student of medieval history, I literally wept to be standing at today’s unprepossessing place where such an historic event took place. But then, Provence, is like that, filled with the bits and pieces of huge historic moments and places tucked in among the vineyards, cafes, restaurants, and hotels where the good life is perpetually reflected and lived.

Aigues-Mortes is a wonderfully preserved fortified city where you can walk the ramparts as did the soldiers of Louis IX, looking out across a vast plain, which in his time was water, and imagine those far-away days. You can even catch of view of the Salins du Midi, the salt pans where some of France’s most delectable sea salt is harvested. In July and August, should you be there, you can arrange a visit through the Tourist Office.

Food-wise, I love the Gardiane de Tauraux, a rich stew made with meat from the famous bulls of the Camargue and local olives. For wine, I can’t resist the fabulous Listel, a true vin de sable, made from vines growing in sand in the region’s sandy soils.

Aigues-Mortes: The Rampart Walk
From the Port de la Garette cross the old parade grounds, Place d’Armes, to the entrance to monument d’Aigues Mortes. Climb the stairs to the northeast rampart and look around the perimeters of the city to see the towers that mark the five large city gates and the five small ones, plus the three distant corner turrets. Take the curtain wall from tower to tower around the village. As you walk, notice the many military details, such as arrow slits in the wall; the terraces and the watchtowers; cannon ports on the big tower, the Tour de Constance; and portcullises in the gates with murder holes above. From the southeast rampart, you can gaze unimpeded across the city on one said the fields of asparagus and the swamps on the other. As you begin to traverse the southwest rampart, look out to the cove from which 35,000 men and 1, 500 ships of the Seventh Crusade sailed in 1248, followed 23 years later by the Eighth. Follow the northwest rampart, which reveals a small harbor and numerous pleasure boats, back to the Tour de Constance. Visit the fortified governor’s resident, then walk through the 13th-century tower itself to marvel at the wondrous vaulting, the graceful spandrels, and the decorative stone detail.

Aigues-Mortes: The City Walk
At the well-defended Gate de Gardette, pass through the city walls on Grande Rue Jean- Jaures. Turn left on calmer Rue de la Republique and wander though a few blocks of a pleasant shopping district. Check the menus posted at the restaurants to see dishes using local rice or bull, specialties of the Camargue. Farther on, note the facades at #19 and #23 both from the 17th century; then, on the right, the carved stone doorway of the baroque Chapelle des Penitent Blancs. Turn right on Rue Rouget de l'Isle e to visit the similar Chapels des Penitents Gris. Turn right on Rue Paul Bert and survey #42, a 16th century house, then turn left on Rue Louis Blanc and right on Rue Emile Jamais to arrive at Place Saint-Louis abundantly filled with restaurants and cafes. Order a coffee and choose a chair to view the square. There is a 17th century Capuchin monastery, now an art gallery, and a 17th century town hall with a 19th century façade. The statue of a thoughtful King Louis IX stares straight at the simple, weathered church Notre-Dame-des-Sablons, from which he took the cross and sailed away to Cyprus and Tunisia. On his second crusade, he died near Carthage in 1248, but some of him came home. When you visit the 13th century church, keep in mind that there is a relic of Louis in the wall.

Culinary Get-Aways: California
Summer Calls for Beaches – and Beach Food

La Jolla Cove

The pier at La Jolla Shores

Main Beach, Laguna Beach
I grew up in Laguna Beach, and once we were ten years old and had discovered the cachet of the other local beaches, like Divers’ Cove (my beach of choice until 13) Oak Street (my beach of choice during my teenage years), we would never be caught dead at Main Beach, the tourist’s beach located dead center in Laguna. However, in recent years I’ve come to love that beach, full of childhood memories, the remembered scent of fresh kelp and sea salt, and the tide pools of Bird Rock. Now there’s a Starbucks across the street, next to the old movie theatre, where I get a coffee to take with me for an early morning walk from one end of the beach to the other, the sand still pristine except for a few other folks like me and a dog or two. I stay at the Hotel Laguna, which located right on the beach, with rental lounge chairs, pads, umbrellas, towels and beachside service, just like those on the Promenade in Nice. The hotel is a remnant of Laguna’s early years, when movie stars stayed there, and enjoying its walled, tiled patio and piano bar. Today, the public spaces are decorated with a collection of old photos depicting those times and plein air paintings. (On the right: photo courtesy of Jay Strotkamp)

Secret Spot: Walk north on Pacific Coast Highway. Cross Forest Avenue and continue on the landward side of the highway. Before you come to the next street, you’ll come to a small sushi bar. The sushi is fresh and creative, the space tiny.

Hotel Laguna, circa 1940's